Had breakfast then just as we were planning to go out it rained. And how it rained. Apparently it has been dry here for the last week so I guess there was some making up to do!
It finally stopped rain g around 12.30 (several bananagram games later) so we set out on errands - booking a ferry to Ko Rong Sanloem, visiting an ATM, booking accommodation back in PP. Post rain at least it has been a bit cooler and less humid.
Like true backpackers we will arrive on the island and find a hut.
It will, we hope be a simple beach hut. From what I understand there is no or limited wifi, and only 2 or 3 hours electricity a day. So no fans or air conditioning as we have had.
We plan to return from the island on Wednesday so that may be the next update......
Thursday, 30 July 2015
Wednesday, 29 July 2015
Wednesday: Sihanoukville (Updated)
Up earlier than we intended. I set an alarm on my phone for 7.30 but had neglected to change the time from Malaysian time to Cambodian time so in effect we jumped out of bed at 6.30 and it was not worth going back to bed when the mistake had been discovered.
We had booked a minibus taxi to Sihanouville on the coast (the advantage of travelling in a large group is that this comes an option that only costs a pound or two more that if we had all jumped on the bus, and of course gives us door to door travel)
We left around 9.30, getting the driver to stop off at a money change shop (Nics ATM card is not working out here so he needed to change some money) and an ATM for Jim. We are off to an Island for 5 days where the economy is cash only, no ATMs and there is a limit on how much can be withdrawn daily.
Getting out of PP was time consuming due to heavy traffic,, then the usual long straight road inhabited by bikes, motorbikes, Tuk Tuks, cars (etc). On this road there was considerably more lorries, especially petrol tankers coming in from the ports. There were also several stops for cows and buffalo sauntering across the road.
The journey was slower than expected about 5 hours. After finding our guest house (Ropanha Boutique Hotel) we went off to find the beach. A bit disappointing at first at it was packed the steals and a few powerboats, but we walked a Km or so away from town and pretty well had the beach to ourselves. As it was so hot (albeit overcast) we wallowed in the sea for a good hour. Then got hot again walking home so jumped in the hotel pool before finding something to eat. It's low season (Rainey season) so there is a huge oversupply of eating choices and prices are therefore pretty competitive.
We had booked a minibus taxi to Sihanouville on the coast (the advantage of travelling in a large group is that this comes an option that only costs a pound or two more that if we had all jumped on the bus, and of course gives us door to door travel)
We left around 9.30, getting the driver to stop off at a money change shop (Nics ATM card is not working out here so he needed to change some money) and an ATM for Jim. We are off to an Island for 5 days where the economy is cash only, no ATMs and there is a limit on how much can be withdrawn daily.
Getting out of PP was time consuming due to heavy traffic,, then the usual long straight road inhabited by bikes, motorbikes, Tuk Tuks, cars (etc). On this road there was considerably more lorries, especially petrol tankers coming in from the ports. There were also several stops for cows and buffalo sauntering across the road.
The journey was slower than expected about 5 hours. After finding our guest house (Ropanha Boutique Hotel) we went off to find the beach. A bit disappointing at first at it was packed the steals and a few powerboats, but we walked a Km or so away from town and pretty well had the beach to ourselves. As it was so hot (albeit overcast) we wallowed in the sea for a good hour. Then got hot again walking home so jumped in the hotel pool before finding something to eat. It's low season (Rainey season) so there is a huge oversupply of eating choices and prices are therefore pretty competitive.
Monday, 27 July 2015
Tuesday Phnom Penh (Updated)
A nice spacious hotel room meant at we all had a good nights sleep (when we had overcome the kids unfairness protests that the adult 3 bed room was better than the children's 3 bed room) really there was no discernible difference!
Had breakfast listening to French - almost all staying in this particular hotel appear to be French and read the Phnom Pengh morning post (English language). I guess lots of French people visit because of historical connections, but English has taken over from French as the second language - probably because of the purge on intellectuals during the Kymer Rouge era.
Then we took a Tuk Tuk to the Russiam Market where we saw all sorts of things for sale from frogs, to motorbike spare parts to clothes to jewellery. We also visited the central market which is a lovely colonial old building.
For lunch we bought some delicious French bread (a legacy from the colonial era), some cheese, tomatoes and exquisite pain au chocolat and a had a lovely picnic by the hotel pool followed by a long swim as it was oppressively hot and humid.
Nic went out to meet his friends in the evening clutching avocados he had bought at the market. Jim was very impressed with his map reading skills, as the rest of us walked around a mile to a backpackers street where we had delicious food - Liz in particular scored a hit with her Bar Fish with ginger - and of course only for £1.50.
Of course this walk involved crossing a fairly main road twice, but somehow we managed it (the traffic volumes are pretty intense in P P and pedestrians are bottom of the pecking order!
Had breakfast listening to French - almost all staying in this particular hotel appear to be French and read the Phnom Pengh morning post (English language). I guess lots of French people visit because of historical connections, but English has taken over from French as the second language - probably because of the purge on intellectuals during the Kymer Rouge era.
Then we took a Tuk Tuk to the Russiam Market where we saw all sorts of things for sale from frogs, to motorbike spare parts to clothes to jewellery. We also visited the central market which is a lovely colonial old building.
For lunch we bought some delicious French bread (a legacy from the colonial era), some cheese, tomatoes and exquisite pain au chocolat and a had a lovely picnic by the hotel pool followed by a long swim as it was oppressively hot and humid.
Nic went out to meet his friends in the evening clutching avocados he had bought at the market. Jim was very impressed with his map reading skills, as the rest of us walked around a mile to a backpackers street where we had delicious food - Liz in particular scored a hit with her Bar Fish with ginger - and of course only for £1.50.
Of course this walk involved crossing a fairly main road twice, but somehow we managed it (the traffic volumes are pretty intense in P P and pedestrians are bottom of the pecking order!
Arrived safely in Phnom Pehn
up early. We wanted to breakfast at the foreign correspondents club, but Nic had a good place that he had visited yesterday (we thought it was rubbish)
Then we took the minibus that we had organised to Phnom Pehn. It all took around 4 hours, and was a pretty smooth trip. The entire road (it feels like) from Battambang to Phnom Penh is lined with stalls selling everything under the sun. We compete for the road with bikes carrying school children, rotorvators, motor bikes (with all sorts of adaptations) horse and cart, vans, lorries buses (etc). Some are laden down with people or goods like a balancing act. Most worryingly, toddlers (the kids of the shop sellers) play by the side of the road. What is the fatality rate? From time to time we see the poshest Range Rover known to man - there are some very very rich Cambodians interspersed with the middle class and the 3 dollars a day class.
To be fair people drive quite considerately. There are NO rules whatsoever at junctions or rounder bouts. As the country gets richer gridlock will occur. But for now everyone just negotiates their path like a sophisticated dance.
The road got busier as we got close to Phnom Penh and we hit a bit of gridlock. Phnom Penh is, as you would expect very busy, loads and loads of cars (there were relatively few in Battambang - just motorbikes).
Found our way to The Billabong hotel.
We are due to meet a friend of Nics for an evening meal who works for a NGO out here tonight. Hopefully she can point us toward good beach for a couple of days time.
Then we took the minibus that we had organised to Phnom Pehn. It all took around 4 hours, and was a pretty smooth trip. The entire road (it feels like) from Battambang to Phnom Penh is lined with stalls selling everything under the sun. We compete for the road with bikes carrying school children, rotorvators, motor bikes (with all sorts of adaptations) horse and cart, vans, lorries buses (etc). Some are laden down with people or goods like a balancing act. Most worryingly, toddlers (the kids of the shop sellers) play by the side of the road. What is the fatality rate? From time to time we see the poshest Range Rover known to man - there are some very very rich Cambodians interspersed with the middle class and the 3 dollars a day class.
To be fair people drive quite considerately. There are NO rules whatsoever at junctions or rounder bouts. As the country gets richer gridlock will occur. But for now everyone just negotiates their path like a sophisticated dance.
The road got busier as we got close to Phnom Penh and we hit a bit of gridlock. Phnom Penh is, as you would expect very busy, loads and loads of cars (there were relatively few in Battambang - just motorbikes).
Found our way to The Billabong hotel.
We are due to meet a friend of Nics for an evening meal who works for a NGO out here tonight. Hopefully she can point us toward good beach for a couple of days time.
Sunday, 26 July 2015
Sunday, epic bike ride! By Joseph
Today, we had to get up quote early for a full day bike tour. We got a Tuk Tuk to the cafe and had breakfast there. Because of this, we started a little bit late. Although at that time the tour guide taught us a bit of Khmer.
First stop: we cycled for a while until we reached a family business of making rice paper. The family running the business had to leave the land during the war. But now they have returned and the business is up and running again.
Second stop: the second stop was a place where they made dry banana. This is another family business, and the dry banana was very nice.
Third stop: the third stop was a place where they make rice wine. We got to taste some of the rice wine. But it didn't taste like what we were expecting! The family alos keep pigs which is more profitable that the rice wine sales. Apparently the alcohol infuded rice keeps the pigs docile, making them fatten quicker. Rice wine production kept going over the Kymer Rouge time
Fourth stop: the fourth stop was a fish market, this was Jim's least favourite part. It stank there but they prepared fish very cleverly. Fish was very popular in Battambang and lots of people buy it, despite having to dry it for one whole day. The trouble was; the street to the fish market was blocked for a religious festival, therefor we had to take a massive Detore around rice fields. But it was nice cycling through the place.
Then finally we arrived home, had a drink of water, walked back to the hotel and flopped down on the bed for we were all tired from cycling nearly 40km.
Today we had enjoyed the day including a delicious lunch, a sleep in a hammock, tasty snacks like bamboo sticky rice and rice paper, a ride on a bamboo train getting to a speed of 40km per hour and nice relaxes and breaks.
Addendum by Jim
The bike ride we decided was definitely our best day in Cambodia so far. The company is a social enterprise set up by ex pats but now handed over to locals as a sustainable concern. It is staffed by university students who all speak good English. Our guide, called Mony, is in charge of bike maintenance and was previously a teacher. He knew the history of every cottage industry we visited, and what happened to the families as they were all displaced during the Kymer Rouge time. The day was pricey, but they share their profits with the families we visit so we were pleased to do this. Having lunch in the home of a (admittedly fairly middle class by Cambodian standards) family was a real highlight. In particular our opportunity for a 30 minute post lunch siesta in a hammock. Wherever you go, you see Cambodians whiling away their time in hammocks - shop keepers, bus drivers, you name it. Probably a combination of the heat and underemployment, roadside sellers probably just get a few sales a day so plenty of hammock time.
In the evening one of the kids suggested pizza (to our regret) Nic loves a challenge so whipped out his sat nav as he recalled cycling past one the day before. Length wild goose chase ensued, although we did walk past a very rich Cambodian party (super expensive Range Rovers and trappings of extreme wealth). When found, the food was a bit non descript and very overpriced. But is was fun as we are the pizza in booths, designed for canoodling couples of which there were many , clearly it was the places for dates!
First stop: we cycled for a while until we reached a family business of making rice paper. The family running the business had to leave the land during the war. But now they have returned and the business is up and running again.
Second stop: the second stop was a place where they made dry banana. This is another family business, and the dry banana was very nice.
Third stop: the third stop was a place where they make rice wine. We got to taste some of the rice wine. But it didn't taste like what we were expecting! The family alos keep pigs which is more profitable that the rice wine sales. Apparently the alcohol infuded rice keeps the pigs docile, making them fatten quicker. Rice wine production kept going over the Kymer Rouge time
Fourth stop: the fourth stop was a fish market, this was Jim's least favourite part. It stank there but they prepared fish very cleverly. Fish was very popular in Battambang and lots of people buy it, despite having to dry it for one whole day. The trouble was; the street to the fish market was blocked for a religious festival, therefor we had to take a massive Detore around rice fields. But it was nice cycling through the place.
Then finally we arrived home, had a drink of water, walked back to the hotel and flopped down on the bed for we were all tired from cycling nearly 40km.
Today we had enjoyed the day including a delicious lunch, a sleep in a hammock, tasty snacks like bamboo sticky rice and rice paper, a ride on a bamboo train getting to a speed of 40km per hour and nice relaxes and breaks.
Addendum by Jim
The bike ride we decided was definitely our best day in Cambodia so far. The company is a social enterprise set up by ex pats but now handed over to locals as a sustainable concern. It is staffed by university students who all speak good English. Our guide, called Mony, is in charge of bike maintenance and was previously a teacher. He knew the history of every cottage industry we visited, and what happened to the families as they were all displaced during the Kymer Rouge time. The day was pricey, but they share their profits with the families we visit so we were pleased to do this. Having lunch in the home of a (admittedly fairly middle class by Cambodian standards) family was a real highlight. In particular our opportunity for a 30 minute post lunch siesta in a hammock. Wherever you go, you see Cambodians whiling away their time in hammocks - shop keepers, bus drivers, you name it. Probably a combination of the heat and underemployment, roadside sellers probably just get a few sales a day so plenty of hammock time.
In the evening one of the kids suggested pizza (to our regret) Nic loves a challenge so whipped out his sat nav as he recalled cycling past one the day before. Length wild goose chase ensued, although we did walk past a very rich Cambodian party (super expensive Range Rovers and trappings of extreme wealth). When found, the food was a bit non descript and very overpriced. But is was fun as we are the pizza in booths, designed for canoodling couples of which there were many , clearly it was the places for dates!
Saturday: Temples of Battambang
Nic went off for a bike ride, so we went initially to The Gecko Cafe as it is renowned as being an ex foreign correspondents hang out and retains the same atmosphere. From there we negotiated a Tuk Tuk for the day and went out first to Wat Phnom Banan up 300 steps with a rewarding breeze at the top. As with many temples it had been looted at the time of the Kymer Rouge but still had a resident monk who gives out blessings to Buddhists.
Underneath the temple was an interesting cave system (only 12 steps had to be crawled) then lots of bats, stalactites, stalagmites etc - and most importantly were not land mined during the Khymer Rouge time. They were well worth the visit (although E and J had to be persuaded to do the crawl). Inside is another temple and it is said that the water dripping from stalactites have special properties.
From there we went onto Wat Phnom Sampea a half hour steep climb. On the way more caves , so this one was called "the killing cave" as it was a place of barbaric executions during the war. Now a peaceful Buddha presides over a glass case of skulls and bones.
The wat on top of the hill was "OK" but the breeze was very welcome and the view extraordinary looking over miles and miles of completely flat paddy fields country side.
From there we returned to Battambang. And had a quick bite of street food before meeting up with Nic (who had been on a bike ride with a new one man business) and went off to the Phare Ponleu Selpak Circus. This is a French one arts charity, and the facilities in the school are European standard, European health and safety (etc). there was an exhibition of art, showing that the school is fully equipped. Twice a week, they do a circus performance and although not fully polished (the kids were 16) it was excellent. very expensive by Cambodian standards 14 dollars a ticket for adults, but you could be confident (on this occasion that the money' was being well spent to further educational opportunities for disadvantaged children. Also that children remained at home - not uprooted from their villages and families to education charities as often happens in this country.
To be updated with details of circus.....here the update - they were brilliant!
Underneath the temple was an interesting cave system (only 12 steps had to be crawled) then lots of bats, stalactites, stalagmites etc - and most importantly were not land mined during the Khymer Rouge time. They were well worth the visit (although E and J had to be persuaded to do the crawl). Inside is another temple and it is said that the water dripping from stalactites have special properties.
From there we went onto Wat Phnom Sampea a half hour steep climb. On the way more caves , so this one was called "the killing cave" as it was a place of barbaric executions during the war. Now a peaceful Buddha presides over a glass case of skulls and bones.
The wat on top of the hill was "OK" but the breeze was very welcome and the view extraordinary looking over miles and miles of completely flat paddy fields country side.
From there we returned to Battambang. And had a quick bite of street food before meeting up with Nic (who had been on a bike ride with a new one man business) and went off to the Phare Ponleu Selpak Circus. This is a French one arts charity, and the facilities in the school are European standard, European health and safety (etc). there was an exhibition of art, showing that the school is fully equipped. Twice a week, they do a circus performance and although not fully polished (the kids were 16) it was excellent. very expensive by Cambodian standards 14 dollars a ticket for adults, but you could be confident (on this occasion that the money' was being well spent to further educational opportunities for disadvantaged children. Also that children remained at home - not uprooted from their villages and families to education charities as often happens in this country.
To be updated with details of circus.....here the update - they were brilliant!
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